Rome in February will definitely appeal to fans of the slow-life philosophy. The long Christmas and New Year holidays are over, the endless streams of tourists have subsided (which is why this is the time when airfares and accommodations are at their most attractive).
Take your time, enjoy every moment, stroll through the Eternal City, visit museums, taste hearty Roman cuisine, explore picturesque streets and the most romantic observation decks. It’s also the time of the Roman Carnival, a colorful spectacle of masked processions and equestrian parades.
Table of Contents:
1. Weather in Rome in February
2. Rome in February – How to Dress?
3. Holidays in Rome in February
4. What to Do in Rome in February
1. Weather in Rome in February
February in Rome is one of the coldest and wettest months of the year. However, even in winter in the subtropics, there are enough sunny and clear days to be the envy of summers in countries with more northern climates.
February in Rome is already a few degrees warmer than January. But winter is still fighting for its rights, reminded by rain and cold gusts of wind.
However, something elusive in the air, in the watercolors in the sky, in the first delicate and shy flowers anticipates the imminent arrival of spring. And the closer we get to the end of February, the stronger this feeling becomes.
Snowfall and frost in Rome in winter are very rare, and the photos of frozen Roman fountains and snow in the background of the Colosseum on the Internet only emphasize this fact, because it happens every few years.
However, at the end of February 2018, snow fell in Rome, brought by the insidious Siberian wind Buran, as it was called by the Italian media. It hadn’t happened for 6 years, since February 2012! But in 2012 it was a light snowball.
But in 2018 something incredible happened: 3-4 cm of snow fell, the night temperature dropped below zero and in the morning the Eternal City woke up in a winter fairy tale 2 days before the calendar spring. However, such a natural phenomenon in Rome in February is a rarity and an anomaly, not the norm.
- Average daily temperature in Rome in February is +9°C/48°F
- The average maximum daytime temperature in Rome in February is +14°C/57°F
- Minimum daytime temperature in Rome in February is +3°/37°F
2. Rome in February – How to Dress?
As with other winter months in this part of Italy, the best choice of clothing is an autumn (or light winter) jacket or coat and comfortable, waterproof shoes. Take a cue from the Romans – dress like a cabbage. When the sun is warm, you can take off your jacket; when it’s colder, take off your hat and gloves.
Italians (like the French) love scarves and wear them in almost all weathers, so you can’t go wrong bringing or buying this stylish and practical accessory in Italy. It also doesn’t hurt to pack an umbrella and a waterproof raincoat in your suitcase, if you have one.
3. Holidays in Rome in February
February has fewer holidays compared to December and January, but there are still some.
Roman Carnival / Carnevale Romano (February 13, 2024)
Even if you have never personally attended the Venice Carnival, you have probably heard about it. Venice Carnival is without exaggeration the most famous carnival in the world. But its Roman counterpart is much less known, although in fact the tradition of carnivals originates in the Eternal City.
Some of the customs and rituals of medieval carnivals date back to the ancient Roman Saturnalia and Lupercalia – pagan festivals of fertility and harvest, when it was allowed to do things that were not allowed on ordinary days (for example, gentlemen and slaves changed places, and during meals at the festive table faces were hidden behind masks).
When paganism finally surrendered under the onslaught of Christianity, the traditional festivals did not disappear, but were adapted by the new religion, which put its own meaning into them.
The dates of carnivals began to depend on the date of Easter. The beginning of the carnival (analog of Shrovetide in Slavic peoples) is Septuagesima Sunday, or Seventieth, which begins the countdown of 70 days from Easter and 3 weeks before the beginning of Lent.
The end date of the Carnival is “Fat Tuesday”, also known as “Mardi Gras” (mardi gras) in French and martedì grasso in Italian. It is followed by “Ash Wednesday,” the beginning of Lent in the Catholic rite, or the 46th day before the feast of Easter.
Tuesday (the eve of Ash Wednesday) was nicknamed fat Tuesday because it was the last day to indulge in excessive eating (and more) and merrymaking. And the word carnevale itself, according to one version, means “goodbye, meat!”, because immediately after the end of the carnival begins the Lent, during which believers must abstain from fasting.
For centuries, starting from the 10th century, the Roman Carnival was considered one of the most important and largest carnivals and competed with the Venetian Carnival for this title. Carnival in Rome was held with the high permission of the Pope in the presence of nobles, celebrities and influential people from all over the world.
It was a lavish celebration, during which folk festivities, theatrical performances, processions of Italian Commedia dell’Arte masks, street concerts and jousting battles were organized. On Carnival days, free food and money were distributed. On “Fat Tuesday”, the eve of the beginning of Lent, at dusk they lit candles (mocoletti), which symbolized purification, and played a game – everyone tried to knock a candle out of the hands of a neighbor and at the same time keep their own.
The French writer Alexander Dumas, describing in his book “The Count of Monte Cristo” the unbridled atmosphere of carnival in Rome, wrote: “…Piazza del Popolo was a picture of a merry and noisy orgy. Masks in droves flocked from everywhere, jumped out of doors, climbed out of windows; from all the streets left carriages laden with pierros, harlequins, dominoes, marquises, transteverenza, clowns, knights, villagers; all this shouted, waved their arms, threw eggs, confetti stuffed with flour, bouquets, showered jokes and throwing projectiles on their own and strangers, acquaintances and strangers, and no one had the right to take offense – everything was answered with laughter.
But the main spectacle of the Roman Carnival was the Berberian horse race, which was organized between Piazza del Popolo and Piazza Venezia, right along the modern Via del Corso (then Via Lata). Of course, the frenzied horse racing was not safe for spectators, and in the 19th century, after several fatal accidents (and due to the changing political situation), the Roman Carnival was effectively banned.
The revival of the Roman Carnival took place in 2009, and on a much smaller scale – Venice remains the undisputed carnival capital. Not all the traditions of the Roman Carnival have survived to this day (after all, many of them cannot be called safe), its duration does not exceed one week, but part of its magic has returned to the Roman squares and streets.
Roman Carnival is inferior to Venice Carnival in duration and scope. The main events usually start a week before Ash Wednesday.
Still, it’s also a colorful event. Horse Guards, ancient horse-drawn carriages, theatrical performances, street concerts, mask processions, a costume contest and free tasting of Italian food are the approximate program of events in Rome. Carnival is also considered a children’s holiday, and at this time you can see many Italian children in masks and costumes tossing confetti in the air.
The main venues for Carnival celebrations in Rome:
- Piazza del Popolo
- Via del Corso
- Piazza Venezia
- Piazza Navona
- Piazza España
Valentine’s Day / La Festa Degli Innamorati (February 14)
The most romantic holiday in February, celebrated not only in Rome but all over the world, is undoubtedly Valentine’s Day (or All Lovers’ Day). If you are in love and are thinking about where to celebrate Valentine’s Day with your significant other, the best answer is to travel to Rome, because the Eternal City has everything to do with this holiday.
You will find stunning panoramic sites, picturesque gardens, colorful streets and districts, authentic Italian restaurants and even the Fountain of Lovers, the water from which makes love strong and a pair of loving hearts – inseparable!
Other Holidays in February
February 11 is the anniversary of the signing of the Lateran Accords and the creation of the independent state of Vatican City. Please note that Vatican museums are not open on this day. However, St. Peter’s Basilica will be open to the public on February 11.
4. Rome in February – What to Do
Visit a Museum
Winter time in Rome is particularly suitable for visiting museums. In particular, in February it is much more pleasant to visit the Vatican Museums, which are heavily overloaded during the high season. The Colosseum, other museums and archaeological sites will also please you with the absence of tourist crowds. This is a great opportunity to familiarize yourself with the rich museum expositions of Rome in a quiet atmosphere, without hurrying anywhere.
The day of free admission to public museums (except the Vatican Museums) is the first Sunday of each month, which in 2023 falls on February 5. Museums and archaeological areas such as the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Thermae of Caracalla, Galleria Borghese (must be booked in advance), Palazzo Barberini, Ostia Antica, etc. can be visited free of charge. The Vatican Museums are free to enter on the last Sunday of the month on February 25, 2024 from 9 am t0 2 pm.
Go Shopping
In January, traditional winter sales start in Rome and other Italian cities and last until mid-February.
Go on a Culinary Tour
There’s no better time of year than winter to explore Roman cuisine. Real Roman cuisine (not the kind adapted for tourists) is not sophisticated, but it is hearty and nutritious. If you’re sick of the usual pasta and pizza, go to one of Rome’s non-touristy trattorias, definitely in the Trastevere or Testaccio neighborhoods, and try Roman dishes like artichokes Judaeo, suppli, Roman tripe or saltimbocca. A typical side dish is puntarelle, a chicory salad with anchovies.
And February is also the month to try the traditional pastries of Italian carnivals:
- frappe (crunchy fried or baked pastry dusted with powdered sugar)
- castagnole (deep-fried dough balls that are soft on the inside and crunchy on the outside)
- frittelle di mele (fried bread balls)
- ravioli dolci fritti (sweet fried dumplings)
