The Appian Way – History
A proverb widely known throughout the world states that “all roads lead to Rome”. Indeed, all roads in the Roman Republic were built to connect this city with all, even the remotest parts of the peninsula. However, since it was Rome that was responsible for their construction, the original saying – Tutte le strade partono da Roma – should be translated in a slightly different way: “All roads lead from Rome”, i.e. start from Rome. To be even more precise – from the Roman Forum, the central square of ancient Rome.
One of the most ancient and famous Roman roads is the Appian Way (Via Appia, now Via Appia Antica), a 540 km long cobblestone road, which in ancient times was even called “the queen of roads”.
The Appian Way was laid first from Rome to Capua, and then to Brundisium (modern Brindisi), whose seaport opened the way to Greece, Asia Minor and Egypt for the Romans. As a result, it became the most politically and economically significant road ever built in the Roman Empire.
In 312 BC, the first part of the road, a 195 km long section leading to Capua, was built for military purposes by the censor Appius Claudius Caecus. Previously there had been an improved road from Rome to Calvi. Appius planned to make a large-scale reconstruction of the road, for which he spent most of the treasury. Historical chronicles testify that the builders had to carefully plan the laying of the road through hilly terrain in order to save money. Importantly, while building the road, Appius also drew a canal through the Pontic swamps, which drained the land and made it easier to send ships from Latium to Tarracina.
In the 3rd century BC, Appius attained the status of dictator. The Roman ruler decided to strengthen the state’s position in the region of Campania (Campania). To this end, the Appian Way was extended to Beneventum.
In the 2nd century BC, the Romans decided to pierce the shortest route to the Balkan Peninsula. By extending the Appian Way from Beneventum to Brundisium, Rome gained direct access to the Via Egnatia, which led to the Eastern countries. Thus, the Appian Way became the most important road for the trade of goods and slaves from the East, strengthening the economic position of the state.
The Appian Road has a multi-layered pavement of 1 meter thick stone. The top layer was made up of polished basalt slabs so carefully fitted together that there were no gaps or potholes between them for hundreds of years. These slabs were laid on a layer of pebbles and cement.
According to legend, Appius Claudius, checking the quality of the masonry, tried to insert a dagger blade between the slabs, and if he succeeded, the road section in this place was dismantled and started paving again. As a result, the road turned out to be very flat, which made it convenient not only for chariots, but also for travelers on foot.
In the middle part of this almost monolithic roadbed was made slightly elevated, so that water did not linger on it, flowing immediately to the roadsides, and the road always remained dry and clean.
At regular intervals, mileposts were erected beside the road, indicating the distance traveled, places to rest, and other useful information. Temples, hotels and inns were built in the vicinity of the towns between which the road was built. In some of its parts it had (and still has) a kind of sidewalk and benches for travelers to rest. The width of the road is a little more than 4 meters, so in the old days it allowed two chariots, and today – two cars.
Having finished the construction, the Romans marked the end of the road by installing 2 majestic marble columns. One of them can still be seen at that place today, it is a landmark of Brindisi (Brundisium). The second fell at the end of the 16th century and was later donated to the city of Lecce, where it was erected in honor of the plague.
One of the primary reasons for the construction of the road was, according to historians, an urgent military necessity – during the ongoing war between the Romans and the Samnites, it was mainly used by legionaries. But over time, it also acquired great commercial and cultural importance, which began to gradually lose only after the collapse of the Roman Empire. Much of the ancient buildings and structures along it were dismantled in the following centuries, and in the 18th century a new road was built parallel to it.
In 71 BC, more than 6,000 captive slaves were crucified along the Appian Way from Capua to Rome after the suppression of Spartacus’ revolt.
The road, framed by umbrella pines, has outlived Rome itself. Its importance was noted by Byzantine emperors, the head of the Ostrogoths, Theodoric the Great, and all the rulers of Rome until the Middle Ages. Then, the “ancient road” was left to pilgrims traveling to holy places.
Along the Appian Way runs one arm of the Catacombe di Roma (Catacombs of Rome). Early Christian martyrs and pontiffs found repose in underground caves off the main road. Numerous monuments created during the Roman state have been destroyed over time. Some of them served as a source of donated building materials.
In the late Middle Ages, the Appian Way actually lost its functions and was partially dismantled and a larger section was covered with a new roadbed. In the 18th and 19th centuries, extensive excavations were carried out in the vicinity of the historic route. Ancient artifacts were distributed to hundreds of private collections and museums.
The Appian Way was marked one Roman mile (1478 m). Columns (colonna miliaria) with commemorative plaques in honor of the emperors who ruled in Rome were used as milestones. Now only the pillar of the 1st mile and the column symbolizing the end of the road to Brindisi can be seen.
According to the Law of 12 Tables, adopted in Rome in 450 BC, it was forbidden to bury the dead within the boundaries of the capital. Therefore, until the 2nd century BC, the columbariums of wealthy families were built along the paving stones, where the urns with the ashes were kept. Later, the tradition of burning the dead was transformed into funeral ceremonies. Entire necropolises began to appear in underground tufa caves. Individual tombs have very impressive sizes and intricate shapes.
To distinguish this road from the road of the same name, laid in the 80-ies of the 18th century, to its name make the prefix – Old. The Old Appian Way has a lot to remember: once upon a time it was used by formidable Roman legions, trade caravans, medieval knights, pilgrims passed to holy places, churches were built along it, cemeteries grew up, crucifixes were erected.
It became a universally recognized and world-famous landmark of Italy, repeatedly praised in literature and depicted in works of painting. During the Olympic Games held in Rome in 1960, marathon runners competed here.
In 1988, a part of Rome, together with the Appian Way, was granted the status of an archaeological park (Parco Regionale Della’Appia Antica). Most of the ancient road has already been covered with asphalt, however, the strongest fragments of the roadbed have been preserved in pristine condition. On weekends and holidays, the historic road is off-limits.
The easiest way to reach the Appian Way on foot is from the Colosseo. To do this, go south along Via Celio Vibenna and Via di San Gregorio and turn southeast to Piazza di Porta Capena. Then follow Viale delle Terme di Caracalla and, keeping to the southeast, continue along Via di Porta San Sebastiano. The narrow old street gradually changes from asphalt to paving stones. St. Sebastian’s Gate will be the beginning of Via Appia Antica.
The Appian Way – Things to See
The old Appian Way is surrounded by ruins of ancient buildings in the nearest section to the city. Here is a description of only a small number of them.
The First Mile
The Tomb of the Scipions (Sepulcrum Scipionum), which belonged to an influential Roman family. It was among the first in the 3rd century B.C. It was “discovered” in the 18th century. Several of its elements have been moved to the Vatican Museums. It is located on the left in the Park of the Scipions 280 meters before the beginning of the road.
The Porta San Sebastiano, formerly the Appian Gate (Porta Appia) was built in the 3rd century AD by the Emperor Aurelian. In the 5th century the simple arch was decorated with a superstructure in the form of two towers with crenellated decoration. Inside the gate is the Museum of the Wall (Museo della Mura). Opening hours: Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 am to 2 pm, admission is free.
The first verst column is installed 100 meters from the Appian Gate. The original pillar is located in the Capitoline Square and a replica is placed by the roadside.
The Tomb of Priscilla (Sepulcrum Priscilla) was built in the time of Emperor Domitian (Titus Flavius Domitianus) for the wife of the freedman Flavius Abascantus. The large rectangular structure was in the past richly decorated and finished in travertine. In the Middle Ages, an observation tower was built over the ancient catacombs of the Priscilla.
Church of Domine quo vadis (Domine quo vadis?). The modern name is Santa Maria in Palmis (Santa Maria in Palmis). The modest sanctuary is located in the miraculous place where Jesus Christ appeared to the Apostle Peter. By this time, all Christians in Rome had been exterminated.
When Peter, who had escaped from the Roman prison, asked, “Where are you going, Lord?” Jesus answered, “To the place where I will be crucified again.” Ashamed of his weakness, Peter himself returned to Rome to be martyred. The main attraction of this church is an ancient stone with footprints that, according to legend, belonged to Jesus Christ himself.
Second Mile
Catacombe di San Callisto (Catacombe of St. Callisto) – extensive Early Christian catacombs of the 2nd-4th centuries A.D. Open to the public from 9:00 to 12:00 and from 14:00 to 17:00. Tickets cost: 8 euros – full, 5 euros – discounted, children under 6 years old – free of charge. Official website: www.catacombe.roma.it.
The Column of Pius IX is a gray stone stela by Luigi Canina. Dedicated to the Pope who commissioned the restoration work on the Appian Way in 1852.
Catacombe di San Sebastiano, formerly simply “catacombs” (ad catacumbas). Early Christian burial grounds located under the Basilica of San Sebastiano. Opening hours: Mon-Sat from 10:00 to 17:00. Ticket price: 8 euros – full, 5 euros – discount, children under 6 years old – free of charge. Official website: www.catacombe.org
The Tomb of Romulus (lat. Sepulcrum Romulus) and the Circus of Maxentius (Circo di Massenzio). They were built in the 4th century AD in honor of his son and father, Emperor Maxentius. The ruins are a museum, admission is free, opening hours are Tues-Fri from 10 am to 4 pm.
Tomb of Caecilia Metella (Latin: Sepulcrum Caecilia Metella). It was built in 50 BC to be the final resting place of Caecilia, daughter of Quintus Metellus, Roman consul.
Third Mile
The ruins of the church of Sant Nicola a Capo di Bove. Located near the walls of Caecilia’s tomb. The 14th-century building is a rare example of Classical Gothic in Rome. The basalt sidewalk is well preserved in this section, showing what the Appian Way looked like in its original form.
The Fourth Mile
The tomb of the sons of Sextus Pompey (Sepulcrum Sextus Pompeus). Built by Sextus Pompeius for his early deceased sons. The grief of the father is expressed in poems inscribed on the wall of the tomb.
The tomb of Hilarius Fuscus (Sepolcro di Hilarus Fuscus) has been damaged by time. Thanks to the efforts of Luigi Canin, it is possible to see the wall of the building, decorated with a relief plaque depicting the Fusca family.
Tomb of the Rabirii (Latin: Sepulcrum Rabirii). It was also restored by Canina. The architect reconstructed from parts found during excavations the relief adorning the front of the tomb – the image of Gaius Rabirius and his wife.
The Fifth Mile
Tomb of the Curiacii (Sepulcrum Curiacii). It has an elongated cylindrical shape. It is located on a high hill near the Appian Way. Once in this area there was a battle between the Roman family of Horatii and Curiacii.
Villa dei Quintili (Villa Quintili). Built in the first half of the 2nd century by the brothers Condinus and Massimo Quintili. The wealth and success of the Quintilii awakened the envy of Emperor Commodus, who executed the brothers and confiscated their mansion. The villa was rebuilt and expanded, becoming one of the emperor’s residences. The statues discovered during the excavations of the villa were taken to the Vatican, Louvre and Monaco museums.
Casal Rotondo is a rounded, squat tomb dating from Roman times. It is believed to have served as a tomb for Messalo Corvino, a high Roman official of the 1st century BC. It is now the site of a farmhouse decorated with greenery.
Miles 6 and 7
Mile 6 of the Appian Way is lined with monuments and tombs in the form of rectangular monuments made of basalt, tuff and brick.
At the 7-mile marker, the traveler will find themselves less than a mile from the Ciampino Airport.
The most notable archaeological monument of the rest of the famous route are the remains of the Temple of Jupiter Anxur, located in Terracina.
